Resin + MSC + Cleaning solutions. Tested methods for face-up removal
By an Unknown User (I don't remember their name...)
Successfully choosing a solvent to remove face-ups, body blushing and or other paint-work from your doll.
This information has been compiled based on my 10 years working alongside my husband a boat builder and my 7 years as a
resin doll-owner - I have 18 years in porcelain, vinyl and celluloid repairs and restoration. For clarification I am not the “gospel”
and this information is compiled as a guide to help you select the solvent most appropriate for your use. I spent many hours
conferring with my Professor from my time at Tech College where I took casting classes and courses in plastic, polymers, resins
and fiberglass, to ensure the accuracy of this information. The “rating” is based on my personal experience and from the bare
facts associated with the chemicals in use. I have edited this information to make it clearer and to avoid misinterpretation by the
less experienced.
SAFETY FIRST: Only ever use one type of solvent at a time, before trying another wash and dry the doll first. Work in a well
ventilated area and protect your clothing, skin, eyes and lungs with appropriate safety gear.
About Resin: Resin is a porous substance and variables must be considered such as the brand, the surface finish and
especially the products you are removing. The following information is based on the facts of what reacts with polyurethane
resin and while you should be aware there will be variations to the "rule" all the following products when used as described are
safe to use on the majority of resins.
ALWAYS do a patch test first – either inside the head-cap or on the inside of the torso piece, for smaller dolls the soles of the
feet are a good place to test.
Product: Pure Acetone
Where to buy it: Hardware stores are the only place that sell 100% pure industrial acetone.
Correct usage: Applied using multiple cleaning pads/cotton cloths. Do not apply using a Mr Magic Eraser. Acetone in its purest
form evaporates quickly and is, when used correctly the most efficient and safer ways to strip the doll of sealant as it leaves no
chemical residues. (Is also recomended by Face-Up Artist Rachel Graves of Evenstar designs *see note at bottom) Be sure to
check for reactions to the pigment in the resin first.
Rating: 9.5/10 best choice for experienced doll owners
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Damage usually occurs if you've left a part soaking in Acetone - acetone will soften resin,
using excessive (or any) force if the resin is soft can cause gouges, tears, dents, pitting and abraisions. Colour changes can
occur with some colour/tan pigmented resins - as with all solvents, color fastness tests always should be done. If you suspect
your resin has been softened whilst cleaning - leave it for a while (overnight is best) to re-harden before resuming any work.
Product: Non-Acetone Nail Polish Remover
Where to buy: Pharmacies, Drug stores, Supermarkets, Beauty Salons
Correct usage: Use sparingly with your choice of pads, brushes, q-tips (cotton tips) sponges etc... Requires soapy wash and
clean water rinsing as Non-Acetone nail polish remover can leave a residue preventing proper adhesion of further sealant.
Always use a near-colourless liquid (pale pinks/ light purples or clear and the better options) and that it is oil-free.
Rating: 3/10 there are really too-many variables that make this a volitile "hit and miss" product - If you find A brand that works
stick with it.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Using Nail-Polish remover with oils or vivid colours can damage the resin by staining, avoid
red-tints and bright blue tints. Excessive soaking has the same effect as pure acetone. Using Nail-Polish remover is not an
exact science as all brands use different chemicals, always check the bottles contents and avoid anything that contains: oils,
hardeners, aloe vera, essential oils, fragrance, Yellow #5 and Red #3. Some darker/coloured pigments may be adversley
affected; this is company specific.
Brands to look for: Rite-Aid, Sephora, Cutex (check these for oil content), Polish-Off, Mavala, Supernail (only use white one),
Sally Hanson (Do not use 'oily' type or 'strengthening' type), LaFemme, Manicare.
Product: Isoprophyl Alcohol 70-99%
Where to buy: Drug stores, pharmacies, supermarkets etc...
Correct usage: Apply generously with your choice of sponges, cotton pads and other clean applicators, requires several
applications with clean pads to be totally effective. Wash in oil free soapy water and rinse in clean water to remove chemical
residue. Alcohol should not affect resin pigments. Also I suggest wearing gloves as alcohol is readily absorbed by your skin,
more-so than acetone etc... and unless you want to get tipsy (inebriated) ... GLOVES ON!!! Probably the most popular choice
and the best for first-time users - lower percentages increase the time it takes to clean-off but may be the better option if you're
a little unsure or lacking in confidence - Oh and Vodka wont work... at all but share the fun if you try it anyway LOL
Rating: 9.5/10 best choice of product for less experienced customisers/owners
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Its difficult to damage a doll with Alcohol, repeated excessive use over an extended period of
time could cause the resin to become brittle, Allow any (short-term)softening of your dolls resin time to re-harden before you
attempt any work on the doll. If not enough alcohol is used you can risk smearing paints etc onto unsealed resin and possibly
staining so one should clean thoroughly and quickly.
Brands to look for: Walgreens Apocothary (91%), Swan Brand (99%), AAPER (industrial brand 99.5%), Spiritline (97%), Proctor
& Gamble (98%), Helmar's (99.7%)
Rubbing/Sports alcohol (like Isocol) is 70% and under and whilst it will remove MSC and Testors it takes more time and effort
however can be as effective – be sure to check the “cosmetic” branded alcohols for any non-resin friendly products like colours
or oil based fragrances.
Product: Solvent Based Brush Cleaner/Thinners
Where to buy: Art Supply stores, hobby shops some hardware stores
Correct usage: Use as you would with acetone and certain to thoroughly wash with soapy water and rise well in clean water. Be
certain to CLEARLY read the labels – Any thinner with oil as an ingredient is definitely not suitable - look for thinners with
"solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol). Same with brush-cleaners be certain to use only acrylic paint products.
Rating: 5/10 can leave residues
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not leave your doll parts un-washed after using this to clean them as most brush
cleaners contain preservers and conditioners to prolong your brush life, if left on the resin for an extended period it can cause
discoloration, uneven resin colour, uneven resin texture, surface pitting and stickyness. Avoid anything containing organic oils
or "linseed" as you risk staining. Some have reported a sticky surface after using repeatedly. Personally I wouldnt use it on a
doll ever
Brands to look for: BrushPlus, Winsor & Newton, Aunt Martha's, Tamiya Brand, Mr Colour Thinner
Product: Magic Eraser Sponges
Where to buy: Safeway, Coles, Woolworths, Overwaites, Walmart, Michaels or any store that stocks household cleaning
products
Correct Usage: Simple use a bowl of clean water and "elbow grease" - Magic erasers will remove not only simple surface dirt
but as it is an abraisive spronge made from tiny melamine fibres it will with a bit of work; safely remove the bulk of a face-up. Its
only drawback is that it is difficult to get into tight spaces and will not remove ALL the face-up but can cut down on the use of
chemicals in the removal process. After removing the bulk of the face-up with an eraser sponge you can use a q-tip to remove
remaining paint with a chemical solvent,
Rating: 8/10 effective in removing some of the face-up/blushing but not all.
Incorrect Usage/Possible Damage: Do not combine the sponge with ANY chemical solvents, they were not intended for this
purpose and its a waste of your money, if you're using a chemical solvent use a regular sponge altogether. You cannot
damage your doll with a Magic Eraser (TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE/RESEARCH) however you can injure yourself if
incorrectly used. As it is an abraisive sponge, using it with a chemical solvent in place of plain water can lead to abraisions and
"burns" on your hands as well as other unpleasant reactions between the melamine and the solvent.
Brands to look for: Scotchbrite, Chux, Mr Clean, Britex, Scrub-It, Genuine Joe etc
NEVER NEVER EVER USE THE FOLLOWING:
Goo-Gone/Orange Oil/Citrus stain removers/Mr Orange: the citric acid WILL extensively damage resin, if you have used it
sucessfully its sheer luck.
Kerosene/Turpentine: Both are oil based and can permanently stain with oily splotches.
1. *Note to quote Evenstar
Some People have advocated using W&N Brush cleaner as a "safe" alternative to acetone - I STRONGLY advise against using
this product on resin. It is not meant for plastics, and event though it is water soluble - DOES leave a slightly oily reside. It is
hard to say what the long-term effect of sealing that residue under a layer of MSC would be.
By an Unknown User (I don't remember their name...)
Successfully choosing a solvent to remove face-ups, body blushing and or other paint-work from your doll.
This information has been compiled based on my 10 years working alongside my husband a boat builder and my 7 years as a
resin doll-owner - I have 18 years in porcelain, vinyl and celluloid repairs and restoration. For clarification I am not the “gospel”
and this information is compiled as a guide to help you select the solvent most appropriate for your use. I spent many hours
conferring with my Professor from my time at Tech College where I took casting classes and courses in plastic, polymers, resins
and fiberglass, to ensure the accuracy of this information. The “rating” is based on my personal experience and from the bare
facts associated with the chemicals in use. I have edited this information to make it clearer and to avoid misinterpretation by the
less experienced.
SAFETY FIRST: Only ever use one type of solvent at a time, before trying another wash and dry the doll first. Work in a well
ventilated area and protect your clothing, skin, eyes and lungs with appropriate safety gear.
About Resin: Resin is a porous substance and variables must be considered such as the brand, the surface finish and
especially the products you are removing. The following information is based on the facts of what reacts with polyurethane
resin and while you should be aware there will be variations to the "rule" all the following products when used as described are
safe to use on the majority of resins.
ALWAYS do a patch test first – either inside the head-cap or on the inside of the torso piece, for smaller dolls the soles of the
feet are a good place to test.
Product: Pure Acetone
Where to buy it: Hardware stores are the only place that sell 100% pure industrial acetone.
Correct usage: Applied using multiple cleaning pads/cotton cloths. Do not apply using a Mr Magic Eraser. Acetone in its purest
form evaporates quickly and is, when used correctly the most efficient and safer ways to strip the doll of sealant as it leaves no
chemical residues. (Is also recomended by Face-Up Artist Rachel Graves of Evenstar designs *see note at bottom) Be sure to
check for reactions to the pigment in the resin first.
Rating: 9.5/10 best choice for experienced doll owners
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Damage usually occurs if you've left a part soaking in Acetone - acetone will soften resin,
using excessive (or any) force if the resin is soft can cause gouges, tears, dents, pitting and abraisions. Colour changes can
occur with some colour/tan pigmented resins - as with all solvents, color fastness tests always should be done. If you suspect
your resin has been softened whilst cleaning - leave it for a while (overnight is best) to re-harden before resuming any work.
Product: Non-Acetone Nail Polish Remover
Where to buy: Pharmacies, Drug stores, Supermarkets, Beauty Salons
Correct usage: Use sparingly with your choice of pads, brushes, q-tips (cotton tips) sponges etc... Requires soapy wash and
clean water rinsing as Non-Acetone nail polish remover can leave a residue preventing proper adhesion of further sealant.
Always use a near-colourless liquid (pale pinks/ light purples or clear and the better options) and that it is oil-free.
Rating: 3/10 there are really too-many variables that make this a volitile "hit and miss" product - If you find A brand that works
stick with it.
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Using Nail-Polish remover with oils or vivid colours can damage the resin by staining, avoid
red-tints and bright blue tints. Excessive soaking has the same effect as pure acetone. Using Nail-Polish remover is not an
exact science as all brands use different chemicals, always check the bottles contents and avoid anything that contains: oils,
hardeners, aloe vera, essential oils, fragrance, Yellow #5 and Red #3. Some darker/coloured pigments may be adversley
affected; this is company specific.
Brands to look for: Rite-Aid, Sephora, Cutex (check these for oil content), Polish-Off, Mavala, Supernail (only use white one),
Sally Hanson (Do not use 'oily' type or 'strengthening' type), LaFemme, Manicare.
Product: Isoprophyl Alcohol 70-99%
Where to buy: Drug stores, pharmacies, supermarkets etc...
Correct usage: Apply generously with your choice of sponges, cotton pads and other clean applicators, requires several
applications with clean pads to be totally effective. Wash in oil free soapy water and rinse in clean water to remove chemical
residue. Alcohol should not affect resin pigments. Also I suggest wearing gloves as alcohol is readily absorbed by your skin,
more-so than acetone etc... and unless you want to get tipsy (inebriated) ... GLOVES ON!!! Probably the most popular choice
and the best for first-time users - lower percentages increase the time it takes to clean-off but may be the better option if you're
a little unsure or lacking in confidence - Oh and Vodka wont work... at all but share the fun if you try it anyway LOL
Rating: 9.5/10 best choice of product for less experienced customisers/owners
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Its difficult to damage a doll with Alcohol, repeated excessive use over an extended period of
time could cause the resin to become brittle, Allow any (short-term)softening of your dolls resin time to re-harden before you
attempt any work on the doll. If not enough alcohol is used you can risk smearing paints etc onto unsealed resin and possibly
staining so one should clean thoroughly and quickly.
Brands to look for: Walgreens Apocothary (91%), Swan Brand (99%), AAPER (industrial brand 99.5%), Spiritline (97%), Proctor
& Gamble (98%), Helmar's (99.7%)
Rubbing/Sports alcohol (like Isocol) is 70% and under and whilst it will remove MSC and Testors it takes more time and effort
however can be as effective – be sure to check the “cosmetic” branded alcohols for any non-resin friendly products like colours
or oil based fragrances.
Product: Solvent Based Brush Cleaner/Thinners
Where to buy: Art Supply stores, hobby shops some hardware stores
Correct usage: Use as you would with acetone and certain to thoroughly wash with soapy water and rise well in clean water. Be
certain to CLEARLY read the labels – Any thinner with oil as an ingredient is definitely not suitable - look for thinners with
"solvents" such as ethanol (alcohol). Same with brush-cleaners be certain to use only acrylic paint products.
Rating: 5/10 can leave residues
Incorrect usage/Possible damage: Do not leave your doll parts un-washed after using this to clean them as most brush
cleaners contain preservers and conditioners to prolong your brush life, if left on the resin for an extended period it can cause
discoloration, uneven resin colour, uneven resin texture, surface pitting and stickyness. Avoid anything containing organic oils
or "linseed" as you risk staining. Some have reported a sticky surface after using repeatedly. Personally I wouldnt use it on a
doll ever
Brands to look for: BrushPlus, Winsor & Newton, Aunt Martha's, Tamiya Brand, Mr Colour Thinner
Product: Magic Eraser Sponges
Where to buy: Safeway, Coles, Woolworths, Overwaites, Walmart, Michaels or any store that stocks household cleaning
products
Correct Usage: Simple use a bowl of clean water and "elbow grease" - Magic erasers will remove not only simple surface dirt
but as it is an abraisive spronge made from tiny melamine fibres it will with a bit of work; safely remove the bulk of a face-up. Its
only drawback is that it is difficult to get into tight spaces and will not remove ALL the face-up but can cut down on the use of
chemicals in the removal process. After removing the bulk of the face-up with an eraser sponge you can use a q-tip to remove
remaining paint with a chemical solvent,
Rating: 8/10 effective in removing some of the face-up/blushing but not all.
Incorrect Usage/Possible Damage: Do not combine the sponge with ANY chemical solvents, they were not intended for this
purpose and its a waste of your money, if you're using a chemical solvent use a regular sponge altogether. You cannot
damage your doll with a Magic Eraser (TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE/RESEARCH) however you can injure yourself if
incorrectly used. As it is an abraisive sponge, using it with a chemical solvent in place of plain water can lead to abraisions and
"burns" on your hands as well as other unpleasant reactions between the melamine and the solvent.
Brands to look for: Scotchbrite, Chux, Mr Clean, Britex, Scrub-It, Genuine Joe etc
NEVER NEVER EVER USE THE FOLLOWING:
Goo-Gone/Orange Oil/Citrus stain removers/Mr Orange: the citric acid WILL extensively damage resin, if you have used it
sucessfully its sheer luck.
Kerosene/Turpentine: Both are oil based and can permanently stain with oily splotches.
1. *Note to quote Evenstar
Some People have advocated using W&N Brush cleaner as a "safe" alternative to acetone - I STRONGLY advise against using
this product on resin. It is not meant for plastics, and event though it is water soluble - DOES leave a slightly oily reside. It is
hard to say what the long-term effect of sealing that residue under a layer of MSC would be.
Before anyone goes gung-ho into cleaning a face-up off DO THIS:
1: Identify what you are cleaning off and read-up on other experiences on cleaning them off. If its unusual (nail varnish for
example) take the time to ask for help and asistance from members in the forum - thats what its for...
2: Choose the right solvent - alcohol wont remove oil-based paints, and acetone isnt always necesary if the face-up is only
water based and not sealed....
3: MAKE THE TIME to go from start to finish with time to spare - accidents happen when you rush and you'll usually regret it if
you do, if its 3 hours before you have to leave for a meet - consider not taking it with you....
4: Set yourself up correctly - this means have everything on hand to do the job, your chosen solvent, face-mask, plenty of
cotton swabs, q-tips and toothpicks for tiny crevices, clean rags, clean paper towels, soapy water for washing and a large
CLEAN space to place each piece you are cleaning.
AND
5: Remember these are dangerous chemicals doing a job, whilst its fun to do always be aware that you are handling products
that can cause damage to you and your body so treat them and yourself with care and respect at all times.
MORE USEFUL INFORMATION
Clarifying usage of Acetone and Mr Magic Eraser sponge: The "chemical" I am referring to in the sponge itself are:
formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulphite copolymer which is in "laymans" terms the technical term for the abrasive fibres,
when combine with pure acetone you run a possible risk of causing micro-abrasions on your skin and burning yourself through
these abrasions with the acetone. The acetone will not melt the sponge, and neither will the sponge enhance or detract from
the effectiveness of acetone removing the sealer from your doll.
Only ever use the Magic Eraser sponges with water - they were designed specifically for that purpose to cut OUT the use of
chemicals used in removing stains/smudges/skuffs etc in the modern home.
Frequently asked questions...
Q: I'm using a nail-polish remover with a tint will it stain?
A: Yes it is possible - Anything with red, yellow or blue tints are more likely to stain than green or purple tinted, why I'm not
entirely sure it is something to do with the pigments used. I have noted that depending on the country the manufacturer the
colour additives have different names, Yellow #5 and Red #3 can also be labelled as FD&C Red and FD&C Yellow, this
basically means they are compliant with safe use on and around humans, thought depending on the saturation in the products,
most colours can stain your doll.
Q: What is the ingredient Bitrex/Denatonium Benzoate
A: Denatonium benzoate is a chemical flavour added to products used in and around the home - it is used in infinitely small
proportions and triggers the human gag reflex making it near impossible to accidentally swallow whatever it is disolved in. It will
not hurt resin in any way shape or form but can leave residue on your skin (because it is porous) so IF you use a product
containing DB - WASH you hands or your food is going to tast like crap for a week!!!
Q: Will Acetone Melt my Doll??
A: If you leave it in a bowl/bucket full of acetone then most probably yes... If you use it correctly ie: Wet cotton pad - wipe face -
throw cotton pad out - repeat untill clean - Then No it will not melt your doll. There is a LOT of speculation about this and I've
been shot at more than once for saying it but I stick by this statement emphatically. Acetone when used correctly will not melt
your doll into a "Wicked Witch" puddle of goo..
Q: There are white marks on my dolls face after I wash it - what are they?
A: 90% of the time it is residual sealant - using your chosen solvent wipe the white marks untill completely removed then rinse
again. If they do not come off using this method then the second most likely cause is discolouration or uneven mixing of the
pigment - the only effective way to fix this is to sand carefully or blush-over the area if it is more than a thin layer.
Q: Will soaking my doll in acetone/alcohol/brushcleaner etc... clean it faster?
A: NO NO NO NO NO NO NO..... Clear?
Correctly cleaning off a face-up or body blushing is almost as time consuming as putting it on in the first place - DO NOT EVER
SOAK YOUR DOLL IN A SOLVENT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take your time to do it right the first time and avoid the issues that arise from
rushing or doing it the wrong way. The ONLY time I have ever suggested soaking was for someone with black painted Beryl
hooves - and it was in warm soapy water to help soften and lift off the MULTIPLE layers of acrylic paint. If you soak anything in
a chemical solvent you're begging for trouble. (pardon my rather harsh opinion)
Q: What will oil based products do to my doll?
A: Honestly ..? With plain ol' oils not much at all - however its the combinations of oil + acid, or oil + solvent, oil + pigment, and
the multiple types of oils, synthetic vs organic, pure vs mixed. Most resin is porous and the use of some oil-based products can
stain and unevenly discolour your doll - only way to fix it is to sand off - its a risk thats not realy worth taking unless you are
more familiar with the oil type and why exactly you need to use it...
1: Identify what you are cleaning off and read-up on other experiences on cleaning them off. If its unusual (nail varnish for
example) take the time to ask for help and asistance from members in the forum - thats what its for...
2: Choose the right solvent - alcohol wont remove oil-based paints, and acetone isnt always necesary if the face-up is only
water based and not sealed....
3: MAKE THE TIME to go from start to finish with time to spare - accidents happen when you rush and you'll usually regret it if
you do, if its 3 hours before you have to leave for a meet - consider not taking it with you....
4: Set yourself up correctly - this means have everything on hand to do the job, your chosen solvent, face-mask, plenty of
cotton swabs, q-tips and toothpicks for tiny crevices, clean rags, clean paper towels, soapy water for washing and a large
CLEAN space to place each piece you are cleaning.
AND
5: Remember these are dangerous chemicals doing a job, whilst its fun to do always be aware that you are handling products
that can cause damage to you and your body so treat them and yourself with care and respect at all times.
MORE USEFUL INFORMATION
Clarifying usage of Acetone and Mr Magic Eraser sponge: The "chemical" I am referring to in the sponge itself are:
formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulphite copolymer which is in "laymans" terms the technical term for the abrasive fibres,
when combine with pure acetone you run a possible risk of causing micro-abrasions on your skin and burning yourself through
these abrasions with the acetone. The acetone will not melt the sponge, and neither will the sponge enhance or detract from
the effectiveness of acetone removing the sealer from your doll.
Only ever use the Magic Eraser sponges with water - they were designed specifically for that purpose to cut OUT the use of
chemicals used in removing stains/smudges/skuffs etc in the modern home.
Frequently asked questions...
Q: I'm using a nail-polish remover with a tint will it stain?
A: Yes it is possible - Anything with red, yellow or blue tints are more likely to stain than green or purple tinted, why I'm not
entirely sure it is something to do with the pigments used. I have noted that depending on the country the manufacturer the
colour additives have different names, Yellow #5 and Red #3 can also be labelled as FD&C Red and FD&C Yellow, this
basically means they are compliant with safe use on and around humans, thought depending on the saturation in the products,
most colours can stain your doll.
Q: What is the ingredient Bitrex/Denatonium Benzoate
A: Denatonium benzoate is a chemical flavour added to products used in and around the home - it is used in infinitely small
proportions and triggers the human gag reflex making it near impossible to accidentally swallow whatever it is disolved in. It will
not hurt resin in any way shape or form but can leave residue on your skin (because it is porous) so IF you use a product
containing DB - WASH you hands or your food is going to tast like crap for a week!!!
Q: Will Acetone Melt my Doll??
A: If you leave it in a bowl/bucket full of acetone then most probably yes... If you use it correctly ie: Wet cotton pad - wipe face -
throw cotton pad out - repeat untill clean - Then No it will not melt your doll. There is a LOT of speculation about this and I've
been shot at more than once for saying it but I stick by this statement emphatically. Acetone when used correctly will not melt
your doll into a "Wicked Witch" puddle of goo..
Q: There are white marks on my dolls face after I wash it - what are they?
A: 90% of the time it is residual sealant - using your chosen solvent wipe the white marks untill completely removed then rinse
again. If they do not come off using this method then the second most likely cause is discolouration or uneven mixing of the
pigment - the only effective way to fix this is to sand carefully or blush-over the area if it is more than a thin layer.
Q: Will soaking my doll in acetone/alcohol/brushcleaner etc... clean it faster?
A: NO NO NO NO NO NO NO..... Clear?
Correctly cleaning off a face-up or body blushing is almost as time consuming as putting it on in the first place - DO NOT EVER
SOAK YOUR DOLL IN A SOLVENT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take your time to do it right the first time and avoid the issues that arise from
rushing or doing it the wrong way. The ONLY time I have ever suggested soaking was for someone with black painted Beryl
hooves - and it was in warm soapy water to help soften and lift off the MULTIPLE layers of acrylic paint. If you soak anything in
a chemical solvent you're begging for trouble. (pardon my rather harsh opinion)
Q: What will oil based products do to my doll?
A: Honestly ..? With plain ol' oils not much at all - however its the combinations of oil + acid, or oil + solvent, oil + pigment, and
the multiple types of oils, synthetic vs organic, pure vs mixed. Most resin is porous and the use of some oil-based products can
stain and unevenly discolour your doll - only way to fix it is to sand off - its a risk thats not realy worth taking unless you are
more familiar with the oil type and why exactly you need to use it...
COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS FROM OTHER DOA USERS:
1. Originally Posted by Latte
Not sure if you've used this yourself whitewings, but another brand of isopropyl available (at least in aus) is Helmar's Iso Pro -
99.7% pure isopropyl alcohol. I can't use it to touch up while painting a faceup because it takes MSC straight off, completely
colourless and no staining at least on RS/BBB resin - I can't vouch for others. Only isopropyl I could find here easily (found at
Dick Smith's).
Thanks Late, I picked one up yesterday to try it out I have SOOOO many chemicals in my studio now we had to install a bolt-
lock on the outside door.... good reason for my house-mate to quit smoking so he doesnt blow us all to high heaven!!
(Oh FYI he never smokes in or around my studio - he's a rare breed of courteous smoker that hides downwind, washes his
hands and changes his shirt, so as not to offend anyone ..... such a sweetie!!)
Oh and to answer the question about sealers WITH acetone in it.... MSC is what is called a solvent based sealer, all of the
sealers "we" (collective) use have solvents in them.... kinda like how when you put wet nail polish over dry nailpolish you can
wipe the dry off too... the solvent in the liquid will often soften the dry layer.... Same with MSC, thats why is recommended to do
lighter coats to allow less chance of "re-wetting" the entire surface and cause it to take longer to dry... Saying that.... I'm a
soaker with MSC But your father is correct, there are solvents present in most sealants and providing you dont use an enamel
sealer (oil- based) your dolly will be just fine
1. Originally Posted by Mahou-Koneko
Okay... so citric acid eats resin? In that case my non-acetone nail polish remove would be a no-go right...? Only asking
because I'm extremely new to this whole 'removing faceup' business.
List of ingredients: Ethyl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., Water, Citric Acid, Benzophenon-3.... and then a list of colours because it's
pale yellow...
I've only used it... once I think. And I wasn't using very much, so I don' think there'd be too much damage to my poor dolls head
if I shouldn't be using this stuff....
Ciric Acid can be very corrosive on any form of resin and plastic but only when in a concentrated form like the orange oil
cleaners for removing things like chewing gum and paint residue,
Non-acetone polish remover is okay to use, if its a pale colour its quite safe when used as described above. The colours can
only be detrimental if they are high concentration, for example a ruby-red polish remover is likely to leave a pinkish residue
which sometime can and sometimes cant be washed off. Welcome to face-up club *hugs*
1. Originally Posted by Loagaeth
Alright, someone in this thread might be able to give me some tips. I'm going to be redoing my friend's Beryl, including her
hooves and horns which she has completely painted with black paint. She told me she did spray a coat of MSC before painting
them. What would be the best way to remove the paint without sitting there wiping at it for hours on end? Is there maybe
anything anyone can recommend that could remove it a little quicker?
Use your choice of sealer remover (aceton/brush cleaner etc) and just take off the top coat of MSC, then using a kids soft tooth
brush and mild soapy warm water gently scrub off the bulk of the black paint, the paint if its acrylic will lift off quite easily with
little effort, you can even leave the hooves to soak for 10-15 minutes in the soapy water to soften the paint then scrub them
(gently) with the toothbrush. Once its back to a light grey-ish colour (the paint will have stained the MSC) then get to with the
stripper to clean off the remaining MSC and any bits of paint that are still clinging.
This will work if the paint is acrylic or a water-ased paint. If its an enamel or an acrylic oil sadly there's no choice but to wipe
over and over again with your sealer remover of choice. Let us know how you get on too, I know there are a lot of people who
will appreciate some pics also!!
1. Originally Posted by DollfieFashionIsland
i want to try..but i wonder if they are toxic..
All the chemicals and solvents listed in the first thread are toxic, however they have been graded safe for human use. Basically
this means if you wera a face-mask to stop the bulk of the fumes and work in a well ventilated area (fan on and window open)
and a pair of disposeable vinyl (not latex) gloves then you're safe as houses. The biggest problem is repeated prolonged
exposure. Acetone fumes can cause symptoms of memory loss and Alcohol fumes can cause severe headaches as well as
blurred vision... and then there's Plurisy and Emphesemia when your lungs react to the repeatedly inhaled fumes.
If you treat your solvents and spray with care and respect as you would any household cleaner then you dont have a thing to
worry about
1. Originally Posted by Sims
This is just a little trick I learned when doing faceups. I bought a Ziplock bowl with a twist lid and a HUGE container of winsor
newton brush cleaner. I actually submerge the whole head in the cleaner for about 15 minutes (altho once I left it in there for
three days. I don't reccommend this but it didn't hurt mine) Then I use a automatic toothbrush holding it under the surface.
once I'm done I pull it out and wash it off using just a bit of eraser where needed. Then re cap the bowl. This allows me to do
many many faceups before the cleaner just gets too cloudy and I get parinoid and change it out.
One of the advantages of the soak method is that with the toothbrush I have been able to get layers of msc out of ears and
ridges that I haven't been able to get out with any other cleaner. Because of the lack of being able to soak the resin in it for any
lenght of time with out fearing damage.
THIS ^ is just cool!!! My acetone comes in a 10lts container (also use it to work on out yacht) I'll give the decant into a small
container a shot and see how long it stays effective when sealed after each use.... otherwise I go through about $2-$3 worth of
cotton balls per doll Not sure about the toothbrush though - my hands are wierd enough without adding vibration into the mix
1. Originally Posted by whitewings
YOUR DOLL WILL NOT MELT IF YOU USE ACETONE!!!!!
wrong. a little searching goes a long way. there are many, many threads in which someone has accidentally melted their doll's
face using acetone (and lots of pictures!) just because acetone worked for you doesn't mean it won't melt certain companies'
resin. acetone definitely, 100% melts luts resin and even their site asks you not to use it.
i would not risk using acetone, no matter if it worked for you or a handful of others.
1. Originally Posted by SakuraLee
Can I just say I don't think its a good idea to use isopropyl alcohol (90%+) to remove a face up repeatedly. I have been using it,
however it noticably makes the resin a lighter colour after more than a couple of uses and I am very sure that it must do
something to the resin because the head is smaller overall compared to before I cleaned it. The headcap was a perfect fit to
begin and now, well, its not. Perhaps it softens the resin slightly, or if possible at all, shrink it?
So if anyone wants to used it to remove a face up I would advise you to not let the head sit in it for any longer than a minute
before removing it and using magic eraser/toothbrush to remove the face up. It is however, very good at removing it.
I personally have never heard or noticed shrinkage where the use of alcohol is involved but then acetone is my preferered
solvent. Repeated exposure to any solvent will over time reduce the saturation of pigment in the resin, especially the darker
skin-tones - though the shorter the exposure the less noticeable it will be. I've got some spare hands around that I use as "test
dummies" so I'll give them a shot with the alcohol I use to see if there is any noticeable shrinkage and post the results here...
And I agree with you and highly recomend against extended exposure to any solvent - as per the first post - wipe it clean and
wash it off...
I have to reiterate though - NOT to use the Magic erasers with any type of solvent. It is a waste of time and a waste of an
eraser. They are designed to be used with clean water only and by using it with a solvent you run the risk of doing damage to
yourself. The solvent will not increase its efficiency and can in some cases be counter productive by clogging the micro-fine
fibres with clumps of sealer and paint rather than relying on its "powdering" action where it abraids away micro-fine particles.
2. Originally Posted by SakuraLee
Maybe then, I'm just imagining things? I'll try it again and take pictures as I'm going along but I'm really sure that it was a perfect
fit before and its not now. I know that there is no way I could (and would ever try to) ''bend'' the resin or scratch away at it/ use
sandpaper to remove a face up.
I'll go find myself and electronic toothbrush then and ditch the magic eraser, thanks.
Did give it a go!!! I cast three identical hands from 4PU Polyurethane resin (same chemical components to the resin used by
Bobobie) I submerged one in Windsor and Newton Brush cleaner- one in 99% industrial grade alcohol and one in pure
acetone.... I didnt think to take pictures but after a week (I forgot about them) the alcohol had evaporated leaving the hand
completely unscathed and with a small amount of water in the glass- the Windsor and Newton had partially evaporated and left
a gross sticky coating all over the hand and the inside of the glass that wouldnt wash off without effort (and alcohol) and the
acetone had partially evaporated and had softened the resin sufficiently to be able to drag a finger-nail through the surface of
the resin - after removing it from the acetone the following day it was as hard as it was previously.....
No shrinkage on any of them no cracking and no melting gooey mess..
1. Originally Posted by Ostrich
I was wondering about this myself. I mixed W&N with water and poured it into a plastic bowl. I got up for a second to grab the
head I was going to clean. When I got back the W&N had eaten a hole in the plastic! It's a good thing I had a tarp on the table.
Otherwise it probably would've eaten through the varnish. Now I mix my W&N in a ceramic mug.
I realize you need to wash off the head thoroughly after using W&N. But wouldn't the small amounts left behind begin to eat into
the resin?
lots of people have used it sucessfully and without any probs I myself never use the stuff for anything except cleaning my
brushes - IMHO I found the tints in brush cleaners (usually green) too scary to contemplate. In absolute honesty the safest stuff
to use on the majority of dolls is isoprophyl alcohol if ever in doubt check it first on the head-cap and if you cant get the higher
percentages then medicinal rubbing alcohol will work just fine if its fragrance free it just takes a little bit longer.
with any solvent at all if you wash it thoroughly after you've used it then there shouldnt be any trace amounts left behind to do
damage - hence my love of acetone and its ability to evaporate without a trace...
The "test" I did with the random hands I had laying around my studio resulted in the most damage being caused by the W&N
brush cleaner - it was sticky and soft all over the surface whereas the alsohol and acetone immersed hands were slightly
discoloured and soft for the first day then re-hardened without any change to the resins surface the day after.
Originally Posted by callum91
What can Mr.ColorThinner do to DarkTans?
It looks like I'm going to have to stick to Alchol. :[
I've only tested on Bobobies dark and light tan dolls with all the stuff I listed in the first post, its pigment specific unfortunately
and without having a doll to test it on I cant tell you without a doubt that its safe. Someone has used Alcohol on a Tan Cocori I
believe without incident.
On the Bobobie dolls though it (Mr Colour and Acetone) lightened the surface enough to be a bother and required a light all-
over sand with a very high (800+ grit) sanding sponge to get it back to a uniform tan. The alcohol though didnt seem to make
any difference at all excepting where the MSC was especially thick - it clouded slightly untill it was clean as a whistle....
I also tried the Mr Colour Thinner removing Cromacryl's "Invisable sealant" which is a solvent based acrylic sealer specifically
for sealing paintings, Pastel drawings, Watercolours etc... it took it off without a hitch but again the Dark Tan lightened
perceptibly and remained slightly paler when MSC'ed again and was only back to a uniform colour after a light sand.
1. Originally Posted by psstguesswhat
Hi. I'm wondering if anyone had any specific brand of soap that could be used to take of residue that was left behind from
cleaning. The first post said one that didn't have oil but that doesn't really help me much so if someone knows of a brand that
would be great
I didnt think to add that in - good suggestion. some good USA brands that are the same as we have here but with different
"brand names" are:
Joy dishwashing liquid (about $1.30 from Walmart),
Palmolive - dishwashing liquid or the "soap-free" handwash (the soap free hand wash has minimal oils in it but can have strong
smellies - which you might like)
Cussons brand dishwashing liquids (Usually called Morning Fresh)
Detol hand-wash is also great and doesnt smell too bad either (sniffing my Lilly's head )
another one I've often used is Ajax brand dishwashing liquid... leaves my resin kids lemony fresh heheh
Though truly when I said oil-free sops it was mainly pointed towards avoiding those hand-wash or shower gel type soaps that
are laden with moisturisers, essential oils and excessive fragrance - ultimately they wont do a great deal of anything in the
short-term besides perhaps leave you with a floral smelly doll, but long term I cant say for sure... havent left a dolly part in a
dish full of soap yet and I cant see anyone else doing that either lol Dishwashing liquid is usually the best and it'll never go to
waste - but no using that eco-friendly biodegradeable citruc acid/citrus oil stuff though... its good for the earth; but potential
death to your dolleh!!
Whitewings- thanks for the write-up. I have to say, I'm impressed by your patience!
A couple notes-
Alcohols absorb water, like the humidity in the air. 99% won't stay 99% for long after you open it up, so don't stress too much
over getting the highest possible 99.xxx purity, and don't leave the bottle sitting around open.
One thing I'd ask the people who are experiencing a "film" on parts that have been soaked in alcohol or acetone is what sort of
container they were soaking them in. I'd recommend glass. Avoid waxed paper, dyed plastic, and never use acetone in a
styrofoam cup except for science lessons.
Also, you're better off with a short soak - rinse gently with clean water - soak in fresh solvent - rinse - repeat cycle than just
leaving something to soak for an extended period of time... whatever you're dissolving has to go somewhere.
Cheers,
1. Originally Posted by ShinigamiDuoLover
Thank you! This is all very useful! I'm a first timer. I'm second doll, a SOOM MD Euclase will be coming. I bought him second
hand. He has a body blushing I'm not quite sure will work for me. The previous owner said that his body blushing is "acrylic
professional paint, applied with airbrush." She suggested using acetone free nail polish remover, but after reading the first
post, I think Isoprophyl Alcoho would be better.
I have some questions though.
What would you recomend for body blush removale? The Isoprophyl Alcoho? Its pretty much the same as face up removale,
just more area to cover....... right?
Will the Isoprophyl Alcoho work on acrylic professional paint?
Noting that the Euclas is a grey resin doll, would any of these product harm him? I've heard colored resins are a little more
difficult to work with.
I'd hate to do anything that would harm my new Euclase. An information to removing acrylic paint from a grey resin bjd would
extremely helpful!
Thank you!
From what I have learned from others experiences and from my own with coloured resins (I have worked on Blue, Pink,
Lavender and Multiple Tans) the safest way to go with a coloured resin is alcohol - even if you cannot get pharmacy grade
(90%+) the lower percentages (>70%) will also do the job nicely - they just take a little longer.
The most important thing I can possibly advise is test it first. Test with a dab of the solvent on the inside his headcap or on a
ball joint in an inconspicuous place at least one day before you plan to remove the blushing - check for any discolouration the
following day. If there is a colour change then the solvent is a no-go and you may have to opt for a Magic Eraser on its own
(still works very well for body blushing)
Let us know how you go - sharing here is great for others to learn what works And congratulations on your Euclase
1. Originally Posted by Latte
Not sure if you've used this yourself whitewings, but another brand of isopropyl available (at least in aus) is Helmar's Iso Pro -
99.7% pure isopropyl alcohol. I can't use it to touch up while painting a faceup because it takes MSC straight off, completely
colourless and no staining at least on RS/BBB resin - I can't vouch for others. Only isopropyl I could find here easily (found at
Dick Smith's).
Thanks Late, I picked one up yesterday to try it out I have SOOOO many chemicals in my studio now we had to install a bolt-
lock on the outside door.... good reason for my house-mate to quit smoking so he doesnt blow us all to high heaven!!
(Oh FYI he never smokes in or around my studio - he's a rare breed of courteous smoker that hides downwind, washes his
hands and changes his shirt, so as not to offend anyone ..... such a sweetie!!)
Oh and to answer the question about sealers WITH acetone in it.... MSC is what is called a solvent based sealer, all of the
sealers "we" (collective) use have solvents in them.... kinda like how when you put wet nail polish over dry nailpolish you can
wipe the dry off too... the solvent in the liquid will often soften the dry layer.... Same with MSC, thats why is recommended to do
lighter coats to allow less chance of "re-wetting" the entire surface and cause it to take longer to dry... Saying that.... I'm a
soaker with MSC But your father is correct, there are solvents present in most sealants and providing you dont use an enamel
sealer (oil- based) your dolly will be just fine
1. Originally Posted by Mahou-Koneko
Okay... so citric acid eats resin? In that case my non-acetone nail polish remove would be a no-go right...? Only asking
because I'm extremely new to this whole 'removing faceup' business.
List of ingredients: Ethyl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., Water, Citric Acid, Benzophenon-3.... and then a list of colours because it's
pale yellow...
I've only used it... once I think. And I wasn't using very much, so I don' think there'd be too much damage to my poor dolls head
if I shouldn't be using this stuff....
Ciric Acid can be very corrosive on any form of resin and plastic but only when in a concentrated form like the orange oil
cleaners for removing things like chewing gum and paint residue,
Non-acetone polish remover is okay to use, if its a pale colour its quite safe when used as described above. The colours can
only be detrimental if they are high concentration, for example a ruby-red polish remover is likely to leave a pinkish residue
which sometime can and sometimes cant be washed off. Welcome to face-up club *hugs*
1. Originally Posted by Loagaeth
Alright, someone in this thread might be able to give me some tips. I'm going to be redoing my friend's Beryl, including her
hooves and horns which she has completely painted with black paint. She told me she did spray a coat of MSC before painting
them. What would be the best way to remove the paint without sitting there wiping at it for hours on end? Is there maybe
anything anyone can recommend that could remove it a little quicker?
Use your choice of sealer remover (aceton/brush cleaner etc) and just take off the top coat of MSC, then using a kids soft tooth
brush and mild soapy warm water gently scrub off the bulk of the black paint, the paint if its acrylic will lift off quite easily with
little effort, you can even leave the hooves to soak for 10-15 minutes in the soapy water to soften the paint then scrub them
(gently) with the toothbrush. Once its back to a light grey-ish colour (the paint will have stained the MSC) then get to with the
stripper to clean off the remaining MSC and any bits of paint that are still clinging.
This will work if the paint is acrylic or a water-ased paint. If its an enamel or an acrylic oil sadly there's no choice but to wipe
over and over again with your sealer remover of choice. Let us know how you get on too, I know there are a lot of people who
will appreciate some pics also!!
1. Originally Posted by DollfieFashionIsland
i want to try..but i wonder if they are toxic..
All the chemicals and solvents listed in the first thread are toxic, however they have been graded safe for human use. Basically
this means if you wera a face-mask to stop the bulk of the fumes and work in a well ventilated area (fan on and window open)
and a pair of disposeable vinyl (not latex) gloves then you're safe as houses. The biggest problem is repeated prolonged
exposure. Acetone fumes can cause symptoms of memory loss and Alcohol fumes can cause severe headaches as well as
blurred vision... and then there's Plurisy and Emphesemia when your lungs react to the repeatedly inhaled fumes.
If you treat your solvents and spray with care and respect as you would any household cleaner then you dont have a thing to
worry about
1. Originally Posted by Sims
This is just a little trick I learned when doing faceups. I bought a Ziplock bowl with a twist lid and a HUGE container of winsor
newton brush cleaner. I actually submerge the whole head in the cleaner for about 15 minutes (altho once I left it in there for
three days. I don't reccommend this but it didn't hurt mine) Then I use a automatic toothbrush holding it under the surface.
once I'm done I pull it out and wash it off using just a bit of eraser where needed. Then re cap the bowl. This allows me to do
many many faceups before the cleaner just gets too cloudy and I get parinoid and change it out.
One of the advantages of the soak method is that with the toothbrush I have been able to get layers of msc out of ears and
ridges that I haven't been able to get out with any other cleaner. Because of the lack of being able to soak the resin in it for any
lenght of time with out fearing damage.
THIS ^ is just cool!!! My acetone comes in a 10lts container (also use it to work on out yacht) I'll give the decant into a small
container a shot and see how long it stays effective when sealed after each use.... otherwise I go through about $2-$3 worth of
cotton balls per doll Not sure about the toothbrush though - my hands are wierd enough without adding vibration into the mix
1. Originally Posted by whitewings
YOUR DOLL WILL NOT MELT IF YOU USE ACETONE!!!!!
wrong. a little searching goes a long way. there are many, many threads in which someone has accidentally melted their doll's
face using acetone (and lots of pictures!) just because acetone worked for you doesn't mean it won't melt certain companies'
resin. acetone definitely, 100% melts luts resin and even their site asks you not to use it.
i would not risk using acetone, no matter if it worked for you or a handful of others.
1. Originally Posted by SakuraLee
Can I just say I don't think its a good idea to use isopropyl alcohol (90%+) to remove a face up repeatedly. I have been using it,
however it noticably makes the resin a lighter colour after more than a couple of uses and I am very sure that it must do
something to the resin because the head is smaller overall compared to before I cleaned it. The headcap was a perfect fit to
begin and now, well, its not. Perhaps it softens the resin slightly, or if possible at all, shrink it?
So if anyone wants to used it to remove a face up I would advise you to not let the head sit in it for any longer than a minute
before removing it and using magic eraser/toothbrush to remove the face up. It is however, very good at removing it.
I personally have never heard or noticed shrinkage where the use of alcohol is involved but then acetone is my preferered
solvent. Repeated exposure to any solvent will over time reduce the saturation of pigment in the resin, especially the darker
skin-tones - though the shorter the exposure the less noticeable it will be. I've got some spare hands around that I use as "test
dummies" so I'll give them a shot with the alcohol I use to see if there is any noticeable shrinkage and post the results here...
And I agree with you and highly recomend against extended exposure to any solvent - as per the first post - wipe it clean and
wash it off...
I have to reiterate though - NOT to use the Magic erasers with any type of solvent. It is a waste of time and a waste of an
eraser. They are designed to be used with clean water only and by using it with a solvent you run the risk of doing damage to
yourself. The solvent will not increase its efficiency and can in some cases be counter productive by clogging the micro-fine
fibres with clumps of sealer and paint rather than relying on its "powdering" action where it abraids away micro-fine particles.
2. Originally Posted by SakuraLee
Maybe then, I'm just imagining things? I'll try it again and take pictures as I'm going along but I'm really sure that it was a perfect
fit before and its not now. I know that there is no way I could (and would ever try to) ''bend'' the resin or scratch away at it/ use
sandpaper to remove a face up.
I'll go find myself and electronic toothbrush then and ditch the magic eraser, thanks.
Did give it a go!!! I cast three identical hands from 4PU Polyurethane resin (same chemical components to the resin used by
Bobobie) I submerged one in Windsor and Newton Brush cleaner- one in 99% industrial grade alcohol and one in pure
acetone.... I didnt think to take pictures but after a week (I forgot about them) the alcohol had evaporated leaving the hand
completely unscathed and with a small amount of water in the glass- the Windsor and Newton had partially evaporated and left
a gross sticky coating all over the hand and the inside of the glass that wouldnt wash off without effort (and alcohol) and the
acetone had partially evaporated and had softened the resin sufficiently to be able to drag a finger-nail through the surface of
the resin - after removing it from the acetone the following day it was as hard as it was previously.....
No shrinkage on any of them no cracking and no melting gooey mess..
1. Originally Posted by Ostrich
I was wondering about this myself. I mixed W&N with water and poured it into a plastic bowl. I got up for a second to grab the
head I was going to clean. When I got back the W&N had eaten a hole in the plastic! It's a good thing I had a tarp on the table.
Otherwise it probably would've eaten through the varnish. Now I mix my W&N in a ceramic mug.
I realize you need to wash off the head thoroughly after using W&N. But wouldn't the small amounts left behind begin to eat into
the resin?
lots of people have used it sucessfully and without any probs I myself never use the stuff for anything except cleaning my
brushes - IMHO I found the tints in brush cleaners (usually green) too scary to contemplate. In absolute honesty the safest stuff
to use on the majority of dolls is isoprophyl alcohol if ever in doubt check it first on the head-cap and if you cant get the higher
percentages then medicinal rubbing alcohol will work just fine if its fragrance free it just takes a little bit longer.
with any solvent at all if you wash it thoroughly after you've used it then there shouldnt be any trace amounts left behind to do
damage - hence my love of acetone and its ability to evaporate without a trace...
The "test" I did with the random hands I had laying around my studio resulted in the most damage being caused by the W&N
brush cleaner - it was sticky and soft all over the surface whereas the alsohol and acetone immersed hands were slightly
discoloured and soft for the first day then re-hardened without any change to the resins surface the day after.
Originally Posted by callum91
What can Mr.ColorThinner do to DarkTans?
It looks like I'm going to have to stick to Alchol. :[
I've only tested on Bobobies dark and light tan dolls with all the stuff I listed in the first post, its pigment specific unfortunately
and without having a doll to test it on I cant tell you without a doubt that its safe. Someone has used Alcohol on a Tan Cocori I
believe without incident.
On the Bobobie dolls though it (Mr Colour and Acetone) lightened the surface enough to be a bother and required a light all-
over sand with a very high (800+ grit) sanding sponge to get it back to a uniform tan. The alcohol though didnt seem to make
any difference at all excepting where the MSC was especially thick - it clouded slightly untill it was clean as a whistle....
I also tried the Mr Colour Thinner removing Cromacryl's "Invisable sealant" which is a solvent based acrylic sealer specifically
for sealing paintings, Pastel drawings, Watercolours etc... it took it off without a hitch but again the Dark Tan lightened
perceptibly and remained slightly paler when MSC'ed again and was only back to a uniform colour after a light sand.
1. Originally Posted by psstguesswhat
Hi. I'm wondering if anyone had any specific brand of soap that could be used to take of residue that was left behind from
cleaning. The first post said one that didn't have oil but that doesn't really help me much so if someone knows of a brand that
would be great
I didnt think to add that in - good suggestion. some good USA brands that are the same as we have here but with different
"brand names" are:
Joy dishwashing liquid (about $1.30 from Walmart),
Palmolive - dishwashing liquid or the "soap-free" handwash (the soap free hand wash has minimal oils in it but can have strong
smellies - which you might like)
Cussons brand dishwashing liquids (Usually called Morning Fresh)
Detol hand-wash is also great and doesnt smell too bad either (sniffing my Lilly's head )
another one I've often used is Ajax brand dishwashing liquid... leaves my resin kids lemony fresh heheh
Though truly when I said oil-free sops it was mainly pointed towards avoiding those hand-wash or shower gel type soaps that
are laden with moisturisers, essential oils and excessive fragrance - ultimately they wont do a great deal of anything in the
short-term besides perhaps leave you with a floral smelly doll, but long term I cant say for sure... havent left a dolly part in a
dish full of soap yet and I cant see anyone else doing that either lol Dishwashing liquid is usually the best and it'll never go to
waste - but no using that eco-friendly biodegradeable citruc acid/citrus oil stuff though... its good for the earth; but potential
death to your dolleh!!
Whitewings- thanks for the write-up. I have to say, I'm impressed by your patience!
A couple notes-
Alcohols absorb water, like the humidity in the air. 99% won't stay 99% for long after you open it up, so don't stress too much
over getting the highest possible 99.xxx purity, and don't leave the bottle sitting around open.
One thing I'd ask the people who are experiencing a "film" on parts that have been soaked in alcohol or acetone is what sort of
container they were soaking them in. I'd recommend glass. Avoid waxed paper, dyed plastic, and never use acetone in a
styrofoam cup except for science lessons.
Also, you're better off with a short soak - rinse gently with clean water - soak in fresh solvent - rinse - repeat cycle than just
leaving something to soak for an extended period of time... whatever you're dissolving has to go somewhere.
Cheers,
1. Originally Posted by ShinigamiDuoLover
Thank you! This is all very useful! I'm a first timer. I'm second doll, a SOOM MD Euclase will be coming. I bought him second
hand. He has a body blushing I'm not quite sure will work for me. The previous owner said that his body blushing is "acrylic
professional paint, applied with airbrush." She suggested using acetone free nail polish remover, but after reading the first
post, I think Isoprophyl Alcoho would be better.
I have some questions though.
What would you recomend for body blush removale? The Isoprophyl Alcoho? Its pretty much the same as face up removale,
just more area to cover....... right?
Will the Isoprophyl Alcoho work on acrylic professional paint?
Noting that the Euclas is a grey resin doll, would any of these product harm him? I've heard colored resins are a little more
difficult to work with.
I'd hate to do anything that would harm my new Euclase. An information to removing acrylic paint from a grey resin bjd would
extremely helpful!
Thank you!
From what I have learned from others experiences and from my own with coloured resins (I have worked on Blue, Pink,
Lavender and Multiple Tans) the safest way to go with a coloured resin is alcohol - even if you cannot get pharmacy grade
(90%+) the lower percentages (>70%) will also do the job nicely - they just take a little longer.
The most important thing I can possibly advise is test it first. Test with a dab of the solvent on the inside his headcap or on a
ball joint in an inconspicuous place at least one day before you plan to remove the blushing - check for any discolouration the
following day. If there is a colour change then the solvent is a no-go and you may have to opt for a Magic Eraser on its own
(still works very well for body blushing)
Let us know how you go - sharing here is great for others to learn what works And congratulations on your Euclase
Just adding my several cents - I've been wiping faceups off dolls and putting on new ones for about 4 years now with great
success and no disasters yet.
Here are the doll types on which I have successfully used 100% pure acetone:
o CP Luts NS
o CP Luts BW
o Obitsu WS (vinyl - be quick, gentle and rinse very often or it WILL melt!)
o Obitsu NS
o BBB NS
o BBB Lt Tan skin
o BBB Blue skin
o BBB Pink skin
o BBB Lilac skin
o BBB WS
o AoD NS Yellow
o AoD NS Pink
o AoD WS
o Elfdoll NS
o Dollzone NS
o DOD NS
o Iplehouse NS (older/yellow tone)
I always first do a test on the headcap or other inconspicuous area to make sure that the resin can withstand acetone. There
are plenty of horror stories of people damaging their doll because they didn't test first and had an incompatible resin.
Three things I would never try acetone on: french resin, dark-colored resin, and dolls with additive mods. It's just too risky and
there are too many unknown factors.
If I only need to remove MSC and not paint, I use 99% isopropyl alcohol instead. If a painted head has a heavy coating of MSC,
I'll use alcohol first to remove the coating, let it dry overnight, then go for the acetone for the painted areas. I haven't yet tried
alcohol for removing an entire acrylic faceup, so I can't vouch for it personally.
While using solvent, I rinse the head in clear, cool water about every 15-20 seconds (every time I swap in a new cotton pad),
and then blot away excess water and let it dry overnight before finally going after any stubborn pigment stains in the resin with
wet 2000 grit automotive sandpaper.
Hope someone finds this helpful; thanks to whitewings for the informative post!
This is the most useful thread ever, thank you whitewings and everybody for useful advice!
I hope this can contribute to the "experience" part.
I mostly use isopropyl alcohol, it worked fine (with toothbrush and rubbing) on pastel, aquarelle pencils and water-based
acrylics on:
Dollmore ns resin
luts ns resin
Dream of Doll ns resin
Customhouse ns resin
Volks pureskin resin
dbdoll normal pink resin
and!
isopropyl alcohol and Mr.Thinner (bought from Coolcat) were used briefly (I washed them fast with warm soapy water) on
dollstown dark tan, and nothing bad happened, to my relief
1. Originally Posted by orphansparrow
um...you're supposed to mix W&N?? i had no idea. what is the ratio?
Its all up to the user... I personally use it only for my brushes... but thats just me I know that some people will mix it 50/50 others
closer to 30/70 but the majority use it straight from the container - it WILL eat through some acrylic plastic containers as will
acetone or alcohol (alcohol will warp it) so its best to use a clear or white glass dish to hold the solution.
So glad this is helping some people out - I only put it together because I'm a dork with waaaay too much spare time and not
enough desire to sleep at night
1. Originally Posted by aoichan
I got a luts head, which got a previous make up and sealed lightly.
and when I clean it with Mr. Tamiya Thinner, it cleaned perfectly. which after that, I wash the head using dish soap and running
water. But.. after I spray my first MSC, which... I made a mistake... I think I accidentally spray it too thick. I said maybe, because
when I spray it, I tough there are parts which I forgot to spray, so I spray it. Now to think of it, MAYBE it was sprayed but had
dried.
then... when the MSC is not dried yet, accidentally it touch a side of the paper I used to hold the head.
which making 'mark' well not on the resin, but on the MSC =_=a
I've done that but it was a finger print you can try to just spray over the mark and the MSC sometimes will level out the mark -
other times you just have to clean it off...
Then... I try to clean it using Mr. Tamiya Cleaner. seriously, it's like cleaning for vain at the first 30 minutes.
use water in between the cleaning, cotton butt.
but I haven't been able to lift the msc inside the ears, lips, between nose-eyes even I had used the cotton butt.
If you are using too-much water while cleaning you may be diluting the Mr Tamiya Cleaner too much - which would explain why
it is taking so long to remove the MSC - try reducing the amount of water and increase the amount or Mr Tamiya Cleaner -
actually wetting the inside of the ears to allow the MSC to disolve before washing it clean again
Next question is.. does soaking in a warm water before/in between using the thinner help to clean those ears, lips, between
nose-eyes?
does using magic cleaning sponge help removing the MSC (without using the thinner on the sponge)?
thankyou
Soaking in water and soap will not improve the cleaning capability of the Mr Tamiya Cleaner - If I am having difficulty in getting
the MSC out of small crevices like the inside of ears an nostrils Its very easy to use a stiff-paint brush dipped in your cleaner (I
use acetone and alcohol) and scrub/swirl the brush into the area that the MSC is - cotton buds are great but cannot get into
tiny creases like a paint brush can - a soft childrens toothbrush is also very good for this sort of thing!!
Also Using a Mr Magic Eraser sponge can be a good way to reduce the amount of cleaning fluid you need - If you give the
head a really good scrub with the sponge in some water you can take off a LOT of the MSC - sometimes I have only used the
eraser to remove blushing and eyebrows and left the rest of the face-up behind instead of cleaning off the whole face.
If you are unable to get the regular Windsor and Newton Brush cleaner - I'd suggest trying to get some rubbing/sports alcohol,
its as good and seems to be more readily available...
1. Originally Posted by twylight
Why is W&N Brush cleaner bad? I mean, what does it do? I am hesitant to use acetone because I am a bit of a klutz, so I
started out with 70% rubbing alcohol, water and soap to clean my first one off. It worked okay with a LOT of elbow grease and
many cotton balls. However B&N seems to work just fine for me. Cleans it right off and doesn't leave it feeling any different than
when I started.
But if it's bad for the resin, I don't want to use it. I am just curious what it does and what alternatives are besides acetone, nail
polish and rubbing alcohol?
No need to be too worried twylight the only cause for concern as far as W&N is concerned is misuse - many people can attest
to it having eaten through plastic bowls and containers and whilst I only use it to wash my paintbrushes with - it is successfully
used by many many people to clean their dolls. What most are unaware of though is that at the end of the day it is still a
chemical solvent and should be treated the same way as acetone and alcohol - so no soaking or leaving it on your precious
resin - make sure you wash the head properly afterward etc....
some of the "bad stuff" W&N can do is "eat" the resin causing pitting - it can stain if left for prolonged periods on the resin - it
can soften it and can cause a sticky tacky surface on some resins if left for too long on the resin - this is only from my own
personal experimentation with spare parts
Being a "brush cleaner" doesn't automatically mean it cant cause damage - I still after 4 years prefer acetone (NOT nail-polish
remover) without hesitation as it consistently works without fail to do the job. Acetone is designed specifically as a solvent so
therefore I use it as a solvent - it has gained a bad reputation mostly through misuse.
The most important thing to remember when cleaning your doll is that in most cases it takes longer to remove a face-
up/blushing than to put on a face-up/blushing. Take your time; clean methodically; use care and due diligence and do not fall
into the trap of thinking soaking a part will do all the hard work for you - the best accessories for cleaning your dolls is
dedication and elbow grease - NOTHING will replace these two things.
1. Originally Posted by Seiryuu-san
I'm not sure if this is right place for this question of mine.
My question is this: how long should I wait (for the remover to dry) before I can proceed with the new face-up?
after going through a complete face-up removal - after the soapy water wash off I usually douse the head in warm to hot, clean
water then towel dry with a fluffy cloth and blow-dry it on the low setting of my hair-dryer (temp of a hand-dryer) - you can put
your first coat of sealant on the doll as soon as you are certain its completely dry - if there is any dampness still in the ears - or
nostrils the MSC will frost over and look white, the only time I leave the head any extended length of time to dry (4-24 hours) is
if I've had a LOT of solvent on the head to get off a seriously thick layer of sealant and paint etc.... and that's only to be sure
the head/body part hasn't softened in any way... its merely a precaution as I've never ever had a bad event with acetone and
resin...
1. Originally Posted by Jeanemon
I'm never sure if I've gotten all the sealant off of the doll. What's the best way to make sure I have it all off?
I should feel different - and if you have used a solvent like acetone or alcohol - you will see that any left-over sealant goes a
milk white colour - easy to see on Normal or tan skin tones but on White skin tones its more of a stretch - you have to look
closely for a powdery white raised area - you'll know its still sealant if you can scratch it with your finger nail... Dont worry your
fingernail wont scratch the resin underneath
Originally Posted by Laelen
Hmmm... I've always just held the doll part up to the light to see if there's any difference in texture to tell if the sealant is all off or
not. Usually there will be tiny ridges where the leftover sealant sits on the clean resin. Then I just use my windsor/newton, rub
that spot where the sealant is, and wash
With the W&N the sealant rarely turns white like with acetone and alcohol so this is actually a pretty good way to see any left-
over sealer - dusting the head with talcum powder will also stick to the spots with selant still on it - you have to wash it again but
its a good one for darker skin-tones when using W&N
success and no disasters yet.
Here are the doll types on which I have successfully used 100% pure acetone:
o CP Luts NS
o CP Luts BW
o Obitsu WS (vinyl - be quick, gentle and rinse very often or it WILL melt!)
o Obitsu NS
o BBB NS
o BBB Lt Tan skin
o BBB Blue skin
o BBB Pink skin
o BBB Lilac skin
o BBB WS
o AoD NS Yellow
o AoD NS Pink
o AoD WS
o Elfdoll NS
o Dollzone NS
o DOD NS
o Iplehouse NS (older/yellow tone)
I always first do a test on the headcap or other inconspicuous area to make sure that the resin can withstand acetone. There
are plenty of horror stories of people damaging their doll because they didn't test first and had an incompatible resin.
Three things I would never try acetone on: french resin, dark-colored resin, and dolls with additive mods. It's just too risky and
there are too many unknown factors.
If I only need to remove MSC and not paint, I use 99% isopropyl alcohol instead. If a painted head has a heavy coating of MSC,
I'll use alcohol first to remove the coating, let it dry overnight, then go for the acetone for the painted areas. I haven't yet tried
alcohol for removing an entire acrylic faceup, so I can't vouch for it personally.
While using solvent, I rinse the head in clear, cool water about every 15-20 seconds (every time I swap in a new cotton pad),
and then blot away excess water and let it dry overnight before finally going after any stubborn pigment stains in the resin with
wet 2000 grit automotive sandpaper.
Hope someone finds this helpful; thanks to whitewings for the informative post!
This is the most useful thread ever, thank you whitewings and everybody for useful advice!
I hope this can contribute to the "experience" part.
I mostly use isopropyl alcohol, it worked fine (with toothbrush and rubbing) on pastel, aquarelle pencils and water-based
acrylics on:
Dollmore ns resin
luts ns resin
Dream of Doll ns resin
Customhouse ns resin
Volks pureskin resin
dbdoll normal pink resin
and!
isopropyl alcohol and Mr.Thinner (bought from Coolcat) were used briefly (I washed them fast with warm soapy water) on
dollstown dark tan, and nothing bad happened, to my relief
1. Originally Posted by orphansparrow
um...you're supposed to mix W&N?? i had no idea. what is the ratio?
Its all up to the user... I personally use it only for my brushes... but thats just me I know that some people will mix it 50/50 others
closer to 30/70 but the majority use it straight from the container - it WILL eat through some acrylic plastic containers as will
acetone or alcohol (alcohol will warp it) so its best to use a clear or white glass dish to hold the solution.
So glad this is helping some people out - I only put it together because I'm a dork with waaaay too much spare time and not
enough desire to sleep at night
1. Originally Posted by aoichan
I got a luts head, which got a previous make up and sealed lightly.
and when I clean it with Mr. Tamiya Thinner, it cleaned perfectly. which after that, I wash the head using dish soap and running
water. But.. after I spray my first MSC, which... I made a mistake... I think I accidentally spray it too thick. I said maybe, because
when I spray it, I tough there are parts which I forgot to spray, so I spray it. Now to think of it, MAYBE it was sprayed but had
dried.
then... when the MSC is not dried yet, accidentally it touch a side of the paper I used to hold the head.
which making 'mark' well not on the resin, but on the MSC =_=a
I've done that but it was a finger print you can try to just spray over the mark and the MSC sometimes will level out the mark -
other times you just have to clean it off...
Then... I try to clean it using Mr. Tamiya Cleaner. seriously, it's like cleaning for vain at the first 30 minutes.
use water in between the cleaning, cotton butt.
but I haven't been able to lift the msc inside the ears, lips, between nose-eyes even I had used the cotton butt.
If you are using too-much water while cleaning you may be diluting the Mr Tamiya Cleaner too much - which would explain why
it is taking so long to remove the MSC - try reducing the amount of water and increase the amount or Mr Tamiya Cleaner -
actually wetting the inside of the ears to allow the MSC to disolve before washing it clean again
Next question is.. does soaking in a warm water before/in between using the thinner help to clean those ears, lips, between
nose-eyes?
does using magic cleaning sponge help removing the MSC (without using the thinner on the sponge)?
thankyou
Soaking in water and soap will not improve the cleaning capability of the Mr Tamiya Cleaner - If I am having difficulty in getting
the MSC out of small crevices like the inside of ears an nostrils Its very easy to use a stiff-paint brush dipped in your cleaner (I
use acetone and alcohol) and scrub/swirl the brush into the area that the MSC is - cotton buds are great but cannot get into
tiny creases like a paint brush can - a soft childrens toothbrush is also very good for this sort of thing!!
Also Using a Mr Magic Eraser sponge can be a good way to reduce the amount of cleaning fluid you need - If you give the
head a really good scrub with the sponge in some water you can take off a LOT of the MSC - sometimes I have only used the
eraser to remove blushing and eyebrows and left the rest of the face-up behind instead of cleaning off the whole face.
If you are unable to get the regular Windsor and Newton Brush cleaner - I'd suggest trying to get some rubbing/sports alcohol,
its as good and seems to be more readily available...
1. Originally Posted by twylight
Why is W&N Brush cleaner bad? I mean, what does it do? I am hesitant to use acetone because I am a bit of a klutz, so I
started out with 70% rubbing alcohol, water and soap to clean my first one off. It worked okay with a LOT of elbow grease and
many cotton balls. However B&N seems to work just fine for me. Cleans it right off and doesn't leave it feeling any different than
when I started.
But if it's bad for the resin, I don't want to use it. I am just curious what it does and what alternatives are besides acetone, nail
polish and rubbing alcohol?
No need to be too worried twylight the only cause for concern as far as W&N is concerned is misuse - many people can attest
to it having eaten through plastic bowls and containers and whilst I only use it to wash my paintbrushes with - it is successfully
used by many many people to clean their dolls. What most are unaware of though is that at the end of the day it is still a
chemical solvent and should be treated the same way as acetone and alcohol - so no soaking or leaving it on your precious
resin - make sure you wash the head properly afterward etc....
some of the "bad stuff" W&N can do is "eat" the resin causing pitting - it can stain if left for prolonged periods on the resin - it
can soften it and can cause a sticky tacky surface on some resins if left for too long on the resin - this is only from my own
personal experimentation with spare parts
Being a "brush cleaner" doesn't automatically mean it cant cause damage - I still after 4 years prefer acetone (NOT nail-polish
remover) without hesitation as it consistently works without fail to do the job. Acetone is designed specifically as a solvent so
therefore I use it as a solvent - it has gained a bad reputation mostly through misuse.
The most important thing to remember when cleaning your doll is that in most cases it takes longer to remove a face-
up/blushing than to put on a face-up/blushing. Take your time; clean methodically; use care and due diligence and do not fall
into the trap of thinking soaking a part will do all the hard work for you - the best accessories for cleaning your dolls is
dedication and elbow grease - NOTHING will replace these two things.
1. Originally Posted by Seiryuu-san
I'm not sure if this is right place for this question of mine.
My question is this: how long should I wait (for the remover to dry) before I can proceed with the new face-up?
after going through a complete face-up removal - after the soapy water wash off I usually douse the head in warm to hot, clean
water then towel dry with a fluffy cloth and blow-dry it on the low setting of my hair-dryer (temp of a hand-dryer) - you can put
your first coat of sealant on the doll as soon as you are certain its completely dry - if there is any dampness still in the ears - or
nostrils the MSC will frost over and look white, the only time I leave the head any extended length of time to dry (4-24 hours) is
if I've had a LOT of solvent on the head to get off a seriously thick layer of sealant and paint etc.... and that's only to be sure
the head/body part hasn't softened in any way... its merely a precaution as I've never ever had a bad event with acetone and
resin...
1. Originally Posted by Jeanemon
I'm never sure if I've gotten all the sealant off of the doll. What's the best way to make sure I have it all off?
I should feel different - and if you have used a solvent like acetone or alcohol - you will see that any left-over sealant goes a
milk white colour - easy to see on Normal or tan skin tones but on White skin tones its more of a stretch - you have to look
closely for a powdery white raised area - you'll know its still sealant if you can scratch it with your finger nail... Dont worry your
fingernail wont scratch the resin underneath
Originally Posted by Laelen
Hmmm... I've always just held the doll part up to the light to see if there's any difference in texture to tell if the sealant is all off or
not. Usually there will be tiny ridges where the leftover sealant sits on the clean resin. Then I just use my windsor/newton, rub
that spot where the sealant is, and wash
With the W&N the sealant rarely turns white like with acetone and alcohol so this is actually a pretty good way to see any left-
over sealer - dusting the head with talcum powder will also stick to the spots with selant still on it - you have to wash it again but
its a good one for darker skin-tones when using W&N